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KEN CHITWOOD

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“The person who knows only one religion, knows none”
— Max Müller

A bust of Martin Luther in Eisleben, where he was born, baptized and died. Shortly before his death on 18 February 1546, Luther preached four sermons in Eisleben. He appended to the second to the last what he called his "final warning" against the Jews. (PHOTO: Ken Chitwood)

A critical look at Luther Country

October 25, 2023

It’s pretty boujee, but I have two stained glass windows in my office.

I know, I know.

But one of them is pretty much tailor made for a religion nerd like me. It’s a bright and beautiful, stained-glass representation of the Wartburg Castle.

Perched at a height of some 400m above delightful countryside and rich central German forest, south of the city of Eisenach in Thuringia, the Wartburg is “a magnet for memory, tradition, and pilgrimage,” a “monument to the cultural history of Germany, Europe, and beyond.” Christians the world over also know the castle as where Martin Luther made his momentous translation of the Bible over the course of eleven weeks in the winter of 1520-21.

Since moving to Eisenach, I’ve watched out my windows — the non-stained ones — as busloads of tourists from places like South Korea, the U.S., and Brazil arrive on the square outside my apartment, where a prominent statue of Luther awaits them. They are here, in Luther Country, to walk in the Reformer’s footsteps and learn from his life in towns like Wittenberg and locales like the Wartburg.

A lot of these tours lavish praise on Luther, lauding the 16th-century rebel monk and cantankerous theologian for birthing the Reformation, and shaping Germany and the wider world’s theological, linguistic, historical, psychological and political self-image in the process.

And rightly so. Luther’s legacy is long and important to understand. But I can’t help but wonder what these tours would look like if they were a bit more critical of the man and his consequence. What, I often muse, would a more critical Luther tour look like?

Who said anything about an apple tree?

As the annual Reformation Day approaches (October 31) and I get ready to host a group of college students in Eisenach here to learn about Luther and his impact, I’ve been thinking about how our vision of Luther can be skewed by the superficial stereotypes that are typically trotted out for people on the usual tours.

It’s not that I blame the tourists, travelers, and pilgrims themselves. It’s hard to see past the Luther-inspired gin, “Here I Stand” socks, and cute Playmobil toys to disrupt the narrative around the Reformator.

The well-known statue of Martin Luther in Lutherstadt-Wittenberg, in central Germany. Some commentators suggest it shows — with the word “END” written so prominently under the words “Old Testament” — a questionable view of the Bible “in a political and social context in which anti-Jewish views are again on the rise.” (PHOTO: Ken Chitwood)

But the resources are there, if we care to see them, to startle and awaken our appreciation for who Luther was in critical fashion – to move beyond the myths we know we are making to (re)evaluate Luther and the ways in which we’ve made him into a caricature for our own purposes.

We all make claims about ourselves and others, doing so from within practical, historical, and social contexts. Stories around Luther are no different. When we talk about Luther, it is less about the man, his thought, and his supposed authority over theology and history itself. Instead, it is much more about the ongoing process by which we humans ascribe certain things to people like him: certain acts, certain status, certain deference.

Many of the stories and claims about Luther have calcified over time, produced and reproduced in books and movies, within theological writings and on tours in central Germany.

The good news is, they have also been contested, undermined, and — in some instances — replaced.

Some of these have been relatively simple things, like the fact that Luther was no simple monk, but a trained philosopher and theologian. Or, that he never nailed ninety-five theses to a church door in Wittenberg or said, “Here I stand!” or anything about planting an apple tree. These are, as Dutch church historian Herman Selderhuis wrote, fine sentiments and sayings, but just not true or attributable to Luther himself.

Luther: Wart(burg)s and all

There are also darker and more difficult subjects in need of revisiting in our retellings of Luther’s life — issues that bear relevance to contemporary conversations around race and class, diversity and difference.

As PRI reported, appreciating who Luther was also means coming to terms with how he “wrote and preached some vicious things about Jews.” In his infamous 1543 diatribe “Against the Jews and Their Lies," Luther called for the burning of Jewish synagogues, the confiscation of Jewish prayer books and Talmudic writings, and their expulsion from cities. It is possible that these directives were immediately applied, as evidence suggests that Jews were expelled from the town of his birth, Eisleben, after he preached a sermon on the “obdurate Jews” just three days before his death at age 62.

Luther’s death mask in Halle, Germany (PHOTO: Ken Chitwood)

Dr. Christopher Probst, author of Demonizing the Jews: Luther and the Protestant Church in Nazi Germany, said that while Luther’s “sociopolitical suggestions were largely ignored by political leaders of his day,” during the Third Reich “a large number of Protestant pastors, bishops, and theologians of varying theological persuasions utilized Luther’s writings about Jews and Judaism with great effectiveness to reinforce the antisemitism already present in substantial degrees.”

Probst said that one theologian in particular, Jena theologian Wolf Meyer-Erlach, “explicitly regarded National Socialism as the ‘fulfillment’ of Luther’s designs against Jewry.”

Today, far-right parties continue to use Luther’s image and ascribed sayings to prop up their own political positions.

Beyond his tirades against Jewish people and their sordid use in German history, we might also take a critical look at the class dynamics at work in Luther’s life. Historically, his family were peasant farmers. However, his father Hans met success as a miner, ore smelter and mine owner allowing the Luthers to move to the town of Mansfeld and send Martin to law school before his dramatic turn to the study of theology. How might that have shaped the young Luther and later, his response to the Peasants War in 1524-25? How might it influence our understanding of who he was and what he wrote?

There are also critical gems to be found in his writings on Islam and Muslims, his encounters with Ethiopian clergyman Abba Mika’el or the shifting gender dynamics at work in his relationship with Katharina von Bora, a former nun who married Luther in 1525.

Reimagining Luther Country

Thankfully, I am far from the first person to point these things out. Museum exhibits, books, and documentaries have covered these topics in detail, doing a much more thorough job than I have above.

The problem is that gleanings from these resources can struggle to trickle down to the common tour or typical Luther pilgrimage. Or, they’re ignored in favor of just-so stories.

In Learning from the Germans, Susan Neiman wrote about the power of a country coming to terms with its past. In her exploration of how Germans faced their historical crimes, Neiman urges readers to consider recognizing the darker aspects of historical narratives and personages, so that we can bring those learnings to bear on contemporary cultural and political debates.

We might consider doing the same as we take a tour of Luther Country — whether in person or from afar. By injecting a bit of restlessness into our explorations, stirring constantly to break up the stereotypes, being critical and curious and exploring outside the safe confines of the familiar, we might discover more than we bargained for. But that, I suggest, would be a very good thing.

By telling different stories about Luther — and by demanding that we be told about them — I believe we might better know ourselves. How might we relate to a Luther who is not only the champion of the Reformation, but a disagreeable man made into a hero for political and theological purposes? How might that Luther speak to our times and the matters of faith and politics, society and common life, today?

As we come up on Reformation Day — and I welcome that group of students to my hometown and all its Luther-themed fanfare — I hope we might lean into such conversations and recognize how a critical take on Luther might prove a pressing priority for our time.

In #MissedInReligion, Church Ministry, Faith Goes Pop, Religion and Culture, Religious Literacy, Travel Tags Patheos, What you missed without religion class, Luther, Martin Luther, Luther Country, Visit Luther Country, Thur, Visit Thuringia, Germany, Lutheran, Lutherans, Christian tourism, Travel, Travel the world, Wartburg, Eisenach
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Would Martin Luther vote for a "neo-Nazi" party?

October 10, 2019

“Hier stehe ich und kann nicht anders.” // “Here I stand, I cannot do otherwise.”

Inspired by his original defiant declaration at the Diet of Worms in 1521, the apocryphal saying of the 16th-century rebel monk and reformer Martin Luther has come to be a proud proverb of Protestantism and symbolic of virtuous subversion. 

However, in the run-up to state elections in the eastern German state of Thuringia on October 27th, the National Democratic Party (NDP) is playing off the famous phrase on some of their election posters. 

Instead of “Here I stand,” Martin Luther is made to say, “I would vote NPD, I cannot do otherwise” alongside the NPD’s slogan “defend the homeland.”

Read more at Religion News Service


In Religion News, Religion and Culture, Travel Tags Martin Luther, Luther Country, NPD, Neo-Nazi, antisemitism, Protestantism, Germany, Deutschland, Thüringen, Thuringia
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PHOTO: Ken Chitwood (June 2017)

PHOTO: Ken Chitwood (June 2017)

What's the deal with #LutherCountry?

December 18, 2018

Ok, so I went on the trip.

I saw the sites.

I took the pictures.

I posted pretty much all of them on Instagram!

But, what did my dad and I actually experience? What did we think? What is there to learn about Luther and enjoy about Germany on a #LutherCountry tour? Is a trip like this worth it for someone like you?

Great questions!

Read about the highlights, encounters, and things we learned at the official Visit Luther Country website


In Travel, Religious Literacy, Religion and Culture Tags #TestingLutherCountry, #LutherCountry, Martin Luther, Visit Luther Country, Luther Country, Luther Country tester, Visit Thuringia
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Where are you going? The Official #TestingLutherCountry Itinerary Revealed

October 9, 2018

Two weeks from today I will take off to join my father in Frankfurt a.M. to start our official #TestingLutherCountry trip.

We couldn’t be more excited to go and share our experiences, encounters, and impressions with you via social media.

But before we go a lot of people have been asking me, “where exactly are you going?”

Great question!

Our trip will be an intensive tour of the places associated with Martin Luther — the 16th-century reformer — and his biography. Stretched out over a beautiful slice of the central German countryside between Schmalkalden and Lutherstadt-Wittenberg the itinerary will take us up mountains and into cities, across rivers and into the heart of the states of Thüringen and Sachsen-Anhalt.

Along the way we will learn about Luther, his life, and his legacy in the places where he wrote, argued, and (of course) drank beer!

Follow the #LutherCountry Story


The tour, and Luther’s story, are not just for theologians and religion nerds. Following along with the biography of Martin Luther also reveals the man’s — and the Reformation movement’s — impact on politics, education, language, the arts, and beyond. Being official #LutherCountry testers means we not only get to enjoy the history, art, gastronomy and (of course) beer in some of the most beautiful scenery in Germany, but also test the man himself — Martin Luther.

Part personal tour, part pilgrimage, this is a trip that takes you past the sites and into the spiritual and social setting of Martin Luther and the Reformation.

That means my posts will not only share what we are seeing, doing, and eating, but also explain and examine who Martin Luther was, what he did, and why that still matters today.

I’m excited to spend a night in the monastery where Martin Luther was a monk. I’m looking forward to drinking beer from some of the best brauereien (breweries) around. I’m going to cherish the quality time spent with my dad (we even get to stay in a “Romantik” hotel in the Wartburg Castle…haha!). I can’t wait to relax in the saunas along the way. I am going to snarf down as much German food as I can. I am going to read every placard I can about Luther and the land that came to bear his name.

However, above and beyond all of that I am thrilled to share that story with you.

Be sure to subscribe to my e-mail list for updates about the trip. Also, if you’re interested, you can follow along day-by-day via social media on Instagram, Facebook, and Twitter.

For now, here’s the itinerary with some of the highlights of what we will be doing along the way. Have you ever been to #LutherCountry? See anything you recognize? Have any recommendations? Any questions or comments you want to share? Please be sure to leave a comment below or reach out via e-mail or social media. I’d love to hear from you!

Day 1: Wednesday, October 24, 2018 (Frankfurt – Schmalkalden) 

    • Guided City Tour and stay at the Luther House where Luther lived as a guest in 1532.

    • Themed Dinner in the Luther House – a costumed guide will host 10 guest through the evening. Authentic stories about Luther’s life will be told between the courses. 


Day 2: Thursday, October 25, 2018 (Schmalkalden – Eisenach – Wartburg) 

Wartburg Castle (PHOTO: Ken Chitwood)

Wartburg Castle (PHOTO: Ken Chitwood)

    • Visit the half-timbered Luther House, where Luther lived during his study at the Latin school 

    • Exclusive guided tour of Wartburg Castle, where Luther translated the New Testament 

    • Cozy dinner in Lutherstuben in Hotel Eisenacher Hof. As in medieval times, you will enjoy music, juggling and jests before and after dinner. 

    • Overnight in Eisenach directly at Wartburg Castle in the 5-star Romantik Hotel (hehe!)

Day 3: Friday, October 26, 2018 (Eisenach — Erfurt)

    • Exclusive English City Tour Erfurt including the famous Augustinian Monastery, where the Reformer served as a monk

    • Lunch in an authentic German Restaurant in the heart of the city 

    • Visit of the brand new Digital Showroom of Thuringia and a private tour 

    • Dinner in a cozy traditional restaurant 

    • Overnight directly in the Augustinian Monastery, Erfurt

Day 4: Saturday, October 27, 2018 (Erfurt – Weimar)

Goethe’s House in the Park an der Ilm in Weimar (PHOTO: Ken Chitwood)

Goethe’s House in the Park an der Ilm in Weimar (PHOTO: Ken Chitwood)

    • Visit the impressive Duchess Anna Amalia Library which preserves literature dating from the 9th to 21st centuries 

    • Guided city tour in the UNESCO World Heritage City Weimar, where you will pass over 16 UNESCO objects, such as palaces, Goethe’s Residence or Schiller’s residence, St. Mary’s Cathedral where Luther was ordained as a priest and finally take a walk over the merchants’ Bridge, Europe finest example of a mediaeval inhabited bridge 

    • Lunch — feasting on an original German Bratwurst (Sausage) at Weimar Market

    • Visit the late Gothic Town church of St. Peter and Paul – also called “Herder Church” - with it’s fascinating Cranach triptych altarpiece 

    • Dinner Köstritzer Schwarzbier beer house and restaurant

    • Overnight in Weimar Grand Hotel Russischer Hof 4* hotel (fancy!)

Day 5: Sunday October, 28, 2018 (Weimar – Eisleben – Halle (Saale))

    • Guided English Tour in Eisleben containing lovely churches and fascinating museums Halle (Saale) 

    • Visit the two popular churches: Market Church and Halle Cathedral 


Day 6: Monday, October 29, 2018 (Halle (Saale) – Magdeburg)

    • Entrance to Francke Foundations – from here Henry Melchior Muhlenberg was sent to Pennsylvania to found the first Lutheran Church in America. 

    • Guided Tour through the town including the visit of the Green Citadel of Magdeburg

    • Visit St John’s Church where Luther preached about “true and false righteousness” 


Day 7: Tuesday, October 30, 2018 (Magdeburg – Lutherstadt Wittenberg) 

The infamous Castle Church in Lutherstadt-Wittenberg (PHOTO: Ken Chitwood)

The infamous Castle Church in Lutherstadt-Wittenberg (PHOTO: Ken Chitwood)

    • Visit Luther House that was once home to Martin Luther and his family for many years 

    • Guided Tour in Lutherstadt Wittenberg to the cradle of Reformation including the theses door at castle churches, Melanchthon House, St. Mary’s Town Church or rather known as the “Mother Church of the Reformation,” the Cranach House and Courtyard 

    • Asisi Panorama “Luther 1517 – Wittenberg in Reformation times! Be amazed of the 360° display of the town and get an impression what the atmosphere was like from dusk until dawn

    • Dinner in the authentic brewery Restaurant Brauhaus Wittenberg including a German beer tasting

 
Day 8: Wednesday, October 10, 2018 (Lutherstadt Wittenberg)

    • Dive into the Reformation Festival during this special days: Reformation Day! 

    • Take part in the worship services at the Castle Church in Wittenberg

    • Explore the Reformation Festival and all it has to offer


Day 9: Thursday November 01, 2018 (Lutherstadt Wittenberg – Berlin)

    • Depart from Berlin for home








In Religion and Culture, Religious Literacy Tags Martin Luther, Luther Country, #TestingLutherCountry, #LutherCountry, Thüringen, Thuringia, Saxony-Anhalt, Sachsen Anhalt
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Test #LutherCountry With Me!

September 25, 2018

I'm a fan of the Clash. You know, the famous British punk rock band? As you might have figured out already, I am also a huge religion-nerd, traveler, Lutheran pastor, and Ph.D. candidate in religious studies. 

Those different threads of my life are all coming together in my upcoming trip as the official LutherCountry “Tester.” From 23 October - 1 November my job will be to “test” the full LutherCountry experience and report back and share the story of the Reformation and its legacy based on first-hand experience in the lands, places, castles, monasteries, churches, and city-streets where it took place. 

I look forward to sharing all of this on Instagram and Facebook. I invite you to follow me @KenChitwood or @KenChitwoodPhD if we aren’t connected already. 

I also want to share my stories and experiences on my blog and via my e-mail newsletter. 

I know a lot of you are going to love getting e-mails from me throughout my journey in LutherCountry. Some of you, however, might not…

…so I am inviting you to sign-up for a special short-term e-mail list and subscription to my blog.  

Subscribe to the #TestingLutherCountry list!

Please select all the ways you would like to hear from Ken Chitwood:

You can unsubscribe at any time by clicking the link in the footer of our emails. For information about our privacy practices, please visit our website.

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If you do, I promise you are going to get insider information, inspiring stories, and my in-depth reflections on the places and people that made the Reformation what it was.

Now, if you’ve been wondering how The Clash song fits in with all of this, let me tell you and give you a little taste of what my blogs and updates will be like in the weeks to come:


While I knew some things about the Reformation that class opened my eyes to the revolutionary power of the Reformation and the stunning stories of the people who were involved in it. 

Can’t wait to get back to Eisenach for Lutherhaus…and a restaurant there called “The Totally Crazy Potato House!”

Can’t wait to get back to Eisenach for Lutherhaus…and a restaurant there called “The Totally Crazy Potato House!”

In particular, my professor impressed upon me — based on his extensive experience traveling in the land of the Reformation and studying in Germany's archives —  how vital it was to see not only the big names and famous moments, but to take in the seemingly simple stories of individuals who can sometimes be considered tangential to the grand narrative. There we can see just how vital the Reformation was for individual lives and liberty. 

That is how I came to write "Should I Stay or Should I Go Now? The Choices Females Faced as Nuns During the Reformation." The Clash song-inspired title spoke to the struggle that women faced with new-found freedoms (including Katharina von Bora) and showed me just how meaningful the Reformation was, and is, for so many people across the world — Lutheran and non-Lutheran, great and small, known and unknown. 

As a Lutheran, a religious educator, and a writer I continue to be inspired by my Reformational heritage to learn more about the world, the people in it, and how through exploration and education we can continue to inspire, enlighten, and liberate one another with our stories and experiences.

Just as Lutheran ideas started in places like Erfurt and Eisleben and spread across the globe, it would be my humble honor to walk in the reformers' footsteps in Germany and go on to share my experience and inspiration with the world in photos, writing, and video. It would allow me to share my passion for the Reformation, its history, and its principles with a wide audience. And that, after all, is one of the things the Reformation is about — having your own experience with a source of knowledge, sharing your story, and inspiring others to step out into the world and do the same.

I hope you’ll join me as I Test #LutherCountry next month! 

In Religion and Culture Tags #TestingLutherCountry, #LutherCountry, Lutheran, Lutheran trip, Lutheran pilgrimage, Pilgrimage, LutherCountry, Luther Country, Germany, TourComm, Thuringia, Sachsen Anhalt
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